ʻO nā nalu wai nani loa

Hoʻoponopono hou ʻia ma Mei 25, 2022 e Roger Kaufman

Hōʻike nā nalu wai a me ke kai i ka ʻike ʻole

ʻO Der Gott NeptuneʻO ke kanaka ʻumiʻumi me ka trident ma kona lima, i hōʻike ʻia i loko o ka pūpū, i hele pū ʻia me nā iʻa, ʻo kona mau ʻano he ōlaʻi a me nā ʻino, a me ke kai mālie.

ka wai ke kumu o ke ola a pau.

ʻO ka wai maoli ka passive, akā e like me kā mākou i ʻike hiki ai ka wai loaʻa ka hopena pōʻino ma muli o nā hopena o ke aniau a me nā kūlana ʻē aʻe, ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i nā mea a me ka holoi ʻana iā lākou.

ʻO nā nalu wai, ʻo ka piʻi mau a me ka iho e hōʻike ana i ka lawa ʻole - hoʻomau, huhū - ohohia ʻo ka luku a me ka hana hou ʻana.

Akua o ke kai Neptune

No ke aha he mau nalu wai o ke kai?

ka moana, kai ʻaʻole loa.

Mai ke kahakai a mai ka moku paha, manaʻo mākou i nā nalu o ka wai ma ka lewa.

Hana ʻia nā nalu e ka ikehu e kahe ana i loko o ka wai, e hoʻoneʻe ana iā ia ma ka neʻe pōʻai.

Akā naʻe, ʻaʻole holo maoli ka wai i nā nalu. Hoʻouna nalu ikehu, ʻaʻole ka wai, ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ke kai a inā ʻaʻole i keakea ʻia e kekahi mea, loaʻa iā lākou ka manawa e hele ai ma waena o ke kai holoʻokoʻa.

ʻO ka makani ka nui o nā nalu.

ʻO nā nalu i hoʻoulu ʻia e ka makani a i ʻole nā ​​nalu ʻili ma muli o ka paio ma waena o ka makani a me ka wai ʻili.

Ke pā ka makani ma ka ʻili o ka moana a i ʻole ka loko, ʻo ka haunaele maʻamau e hana i ka piko o nā nalu.

ʻO kēia mau ʻano Aia nā nalu ma ke kai ākea a puni ka honua a ma kahakai.

ʻO ke kahakai paradaiso maikaʻi loa, nā nalu wai keʻokeʻo

Hiki ke hoʻoulu ʻia nā nalu pōʻino e ka ʻino e like me ka ʻino.

ʻO ka makani ikaika a me ka ka hoʻonaʻauao Hoʻomaka kēia ʻano ʻino ʻino i ka nalu puahiohio, kahi ʻano o nā nalu lōʻihi e ulu nui mai kahakai i loko o ka wai hohonu a piʻi aʻe hoʻi i ko lākou hoʻokokoke ʻana i ka ʻāina.

Nā ʻano like ʻole ʻO haʻi ʻē aʻe Hiki ke hoʻoulu ʻia nā nalu palekana ma muli o nā haunaele i lalo o ka wai e hoʻoneʻe koke i ka wai nui, e like me ke olai, ka ʻāina a i ʻole nā ​​pele pele.

Kapa ʻia kēia mau nalu lōʻihi he kai eʻe. ʻAʻole nā ​​ʻano nalu a me nā kai eʻe ke ʻano o nā nalu āu e noʻonoʻo ai ma kahakai.

Kaʻaʻa kēia mau ʻale ma kahakai me he kino wai lā a hiki i kahi mamao loa i uka.

ʻO ka hoihoi o lā a mahina ma ka Honua ke kumu o ka nalu. ʻO kēia mau nalu he mau ʻano a i ʻole, ma ka ʻōlelo maʻalahi, nā nalu kai.

ʻO ka manaʻo kuhi hewa ʻole he kai eʻe ka lua o ke kai.

ʻAʻole pili ke kumu o ke kai i nā kikoʻī au akā hiki ke loaʻa i kēlā me kēia ʻano o ke kai.

Hoʻouna ka nalu i ka ikehu, ʻaʻole ka wai, a ʻo ia hoʻi ke kumu pinepine ʻia e ka makani triggered, e pā ana ma luna o ke kai, loko a me nā muliwai.

Ua kapa ʻia nā nalu ma muli o ka huki umekaumaha o ka mahina a me ka lā.

ʻO ka piʻi a me ka iho o nā nalu a me nā ʻano ke ola o ko kākou moana honua.

Pehea ka hana ʻana o nā nalu wai?

Nā nalu wai nui - kau

Ua lawe ʻia kēia wikiō drone he mau minuke wale nō ma mua o ka mea hoʻohana pūnaewele nalu nui Pelekane ʻo Andrew Cotton i hoʻopaʻa i ka nalu kaulana i hōʻino i kona kua, a hoʻouna loa iā ia i ke keʻena olakino.

ʻO ka nalu i kēia VideoUa hopu ʻia ke wikiō ma ke wikiō ʻo ia kekahi o nā mea nui loa o ke kau, a ʻo ka mea heʻenalu paha i paʻi i ka wahi kūpono, no ka mea he paʻakikī ke pakele i kēia nalu a holo maikaʻi hoʻi, ʻoiaʻiʻo ua paʻakikī loa ka hoʻopakele ʻana i kēia. kikoʻī wahi o Praia do Norte.

"ʻO ka Pōʻakolu Nui," ʻo Nowemapa 8, 2017, ʻo ia ka lā nui loa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka wā nalu nui e kū nei ma Pokukala. Manaʻo ʻia nā nalu koʻikoʻi e pā i ke kahakai o Pokukala ma mua o ka pau ʻana o ke kau ma waena o Malaki 2018.

ʻO ke kahakai ma Praia do Norte, kokoke i ke kauhale lawaiʻa o Nazaré, ua loaʻa maoli i kekahi mau nalu koʻikoʻi, me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana i ka makahiki 2011, e like me kēia palapala, ua hoʻokumu ʻo Garrett McNamara, ka mea heʻenalu punaewele Hawaiʻi i ka nalu nui loa i heʻe nalu ma mua i kona holo ʻana i ka nalu 78 kapuaʻi. .

Mai ia manawa, ua hoʻokipa kēia wahi i nā mea hoʻokalakupua mai nā ʻano hana haʻuki koʻikoʻi.

Kahaha ka nalu wai

ʻO nā nalu kekahi o nā mea nani loa a me ka hanu kūlohelohe nā manaʻo. Ke nānā aku nei ma ka moana, ʻike ʻia nā nalu he nui e like me ka ʻike maka.

Ke hana mau nei lākou - ala aʻe lākou, neʻe i mua, ʻūhū i waena o lākou iho, nalowale kā lākou hana a ala hou.

He uku ia e leʻaleʻa a maikaʻi hoʻi leʻaleʻa.

ʻO ia ke kumu e kipa aku ai ka poʻe hele kahakai a me ka poʻe heʻe nalu pūnaewele i nā kahakai moana hoihoi ʻole a makemake ʻole paha. ʻAe, ua lohe maikaʻi ʻoe iaʻu!

E noʻonoʻo i kahi kahakai ʻole.

ʻO ke one a me ka wai wale nō kāu e haʻalele ai, ʻo ia ka... nani... ʻoluʻolu!

ʻO ka nalu kai kekahi o nā mea kupanaha kūlohelohe e hoʻoulu ai iā mākou. Eia naʻe, aia ʻano like ʻole nā nalu i hana ʻia ma muli o ke ʻano o ke aniau.

ʻOiai e loaʻa ana kēia mau nalu mālie a nui i nā manawa maʻamau, ua māʻona nā mea hele kahakai a me nā mea heʻe nalu pūnaewele.

Eia nō naʻe, he pilikia kēia no nā luina, ʻoiai ke alakaʻi pinepine nei kēia mau nalu ʻinoʻino i ke kumu.

Pēlā nō, aia nā nalu liʻiliʻi ma nā wai mālie.

Ke neʻe nei ka wai i ka neʻe pōʻai i ka holo ʻana o ka ikehu i hana ʻia e kekahi kaomi i loko o ka wai.

Pehea ka ulu ʻana o nā nalu moana?

E like me ka mea i ʻōlelo mua ʻia, he nui nā nalu a ʻokoʻa hoʻi nā ikaika ma hope o lākou. ʻO kekahi kumu maʻamau o ka nalu moana ʻo ka makani.

Ua hana ʻia nā nalu i hoʻoili ʻia e ka makani, i kapa ʻia ʻo ka nalu ʻili, e ka paio ma waena o ka wai ʻili a me ka makani.

Ke pā ka makani ma ke kai, hoʻoikaika ka ʻili i ka ikaika umekaumaha ma ka papa haʻahaʻa o ka makani. ʻO kēia ka hopena o ka huki ʻana o ka papa ma luna a hiki i ka papa luna.

Ma muli o ka ʻokoʻa o ka huki umekaumaha ma kēlā me kēia papa, hoʻololi ka makani i ka wikiwiki ʻokoʻa.

ʻO ka papa luna e ʻōwili a hana i kahi hana pōʻai. Hoʻokumu kēia i ke kaomi i lalo i mua a i luna ma hope o ka ʻili, e hana ana i ka nalu.

Eia nō naʻe, aia nā nalu kai ma muli o ka huki ʻana o ka lā a me mahina hana ʻia ma ka honua.

He mea nui e hoʻomaopopo he nalu wai pāpaʻu ka nalu kai, ʻaʻole he nalu kai.

ʻOiai ʻaʻole palekana kēia mau nalu i ko lākou hopena, aia nā nalu pōʻino e pili ana i ke kai eʻe i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka ʻinoʻino e like me ka makani ʻino, ka ʻino ʻino me ka wili a me nā pōʻino kūlohelohe ʻē aʻe ma muli o nā ōlaʻi, nā hili ʻāina a me nā lua pele.

ʻO ka nalu ka nui o nā haunaele (i kapa ʻia ʻo vibrations) ma waho o ka wai e hiki ke hana ma luna o nā ʻano wai like ʻole e like me ke kai, ka moana, nā muliwai a me nā loko.

ʻOiai ke hele mai ka nalu mai kekahi ʻano o ke kaomi o waho, ʻo ia nō ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i ke kaomi ʻo loko ka wai pale aku i ka hoʻohaunaele e kū mai ana.

ʻIke ʻia lākou e lawe i ka wai a me nā ʻāpana i ko lākou neʻe ʻana. Eia naʻe, ʻoi aku ka nui o ia mea ma mua o ka ʻike.

ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, he ikaika ka nalu e kahe ana i loko o ka wai, e neʻe ai ka wai i ka neʻe pōʻai.

Inā ʻoe i ʻike pono i ka holo ʻana o kahi moku wai i loko o ka nalu, hoʻolele ka nalu i ka waʻa i luna a i mua, a wili a puni, a laila hoʻi ka waʻa i kona kūlana mua.

He hōʻike lawa kēia ʻaʻole e holo nui ka wai i ka nalu, akā he hōʻike wale nō ia o ka hoʻololi ʻana o ka ikehu kinetic ma waena o ka wai.

Hiki paha i kekahi ke hoʻopaʻapaʻa ua ʻike maopopo lākou i ka holo ʻana o ka nalu a me ka heʻe ʻana ma ke kahakai.

Hana ʻia kēia ma muli o ka pale ʻana o ka ʻaoʻao hili o ke kahakai a hoʻemi i ka lalo o ka nalu. Hoʻokumu kēia i ka like ʻole a hāʻule ka ʻaoʻao o luna o ka nalu a i ʻole ka piko i mua a hoʻopuehu pū i kahakai.

Ma hope o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i nā nalu e hōʻike ana i ka neʻe ʻana o ka ikehu, ua kū mai ka nīnau no hea e loaʻa ai ka mana o nā nalu pili.

ʻOiai ʻo ka makani haʻahaʻa e pā ana ma luna o ka ʻili o ka wai hiki ke hana i nā nalu liʻiliʻi o ka ʻili, ʻo nā kūlana ʻino e like me nā ʻino a me nā ʻino e hoʻopuka mai i nā makani paʻa a me nā nalu nui ʻaʻole palekana.

ʻO kekahi mau hanana kūlohelohe maikaʻi ʻole e like me nā ʻōlaʻi ma lalo o ka wai, nā ʻāina a i ʻole nā ​​lua pele e hiki ke alakaʻi i ka hōʻiliʻili nui ʻana o nā nalu i kapa ʻia ʻo ke kai eʻe, hiki ke hoʻopōʻino hiki ʻole i ke kaiaola moana a me nā kānaka noho ma ke kahua o ka hopena.

Hiki ke kumu mai nā nalu ma muli o nā hanana kūlohelohe e like me ke kai.

Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā nalu e ko lākou hoʻokumu ʻana, ko lākou kumu ikehu, a me kā lākou hana. Ma lalo mākou e ʻoiaʻiʻo nāʻano likeʻole e nānā i nā nalu moana a me ke ʻano o ka hana ʻana.

Nā ʻano nalu wai like ʻole

E like me ka mea i ʻōlelo mua ʻia, ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā nalu moana ma muli o ko lākou ulu ʻana a me kā lākou ʻano. Hoʻokumu ʻia ka ʻāpana maʻamau o nā nalu moana i ka wā nalu.

Eia nā ʻano nalu moana like ʻole.

Haʻi ka nalu

Hiki mai nā nalu ʻino ke hāʻule ka nalu ma luna ona. ʻO ka māhele ʻana o nā nalu ʻili wai ma nā wahi ʻē aʻe o ka ʻili o ka wai paʻakai.

Eia nō naʻe, ʻike pinepine ʻia nā haʻihaʻi o ka wai ma kahakai, no ka mea, hoʻonui ʻia ke kiʻekiʻe o ka nalu ma nā wahi wai pāpaʻu.

Ke hoʻokokoke mai nei nā nalu i uka, hoʻololi ko lākou ʻike ma muli o ke kūpaʻa ʻana o ka hili o ke kai.

Ke keakea nei ke kumu kai i ka neʻe ʻana o ke kumu (a i ʻole ka ʻauwai) o ka nalu, ʻoiai ʻo ka mea alakaʻi (a i ʻole ka piko) pono e neʻe i kona wikiwiki maʻamau.

No laila, hoʻomaka ka nalu i mua i kona neʻe mālie ʻana i kahakai.

Ma ke kumu i hiki ai ka lakio o ka nalu i ka 1:7, ne'e aku ka piko mai ke ala lohi, a haule pu ka nalu holookoa maluna iho, pela e hana ai i ka nalu poino.

Hiki ke hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā nalu ʻino i 4 mau ʻano.

Ka kahe ana o ka wai

Ua ʻike ʻia kēia mau nalu he ʻale ʻeleʻele ma nā huaʻōlelo beachgoer a ulu aʻe i ka wā e noho mālie ai ke kai.

Ke piʻi liʻiliʻi ke kahakai, hoʻopau mālie ʻia ka ikaika o nā nalu, kanu ʻia ka piko a hoʻokumu ʻia nā nalu mālie.

Pono kēia mau shafts e hoʻohālikelike i nā ʻano ʻē aʻe manawa e wawahi.

Nā nalu hoʻohaʻahaʻa

Ke holo ka nalu ma luna o ke kai hili ʻole a paʻakikī paha, e kulu ka piko o ka nalu a paʻa pū kekahi ʻeke o ka ea ma lalo.

No laila, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana o nā nalu i ka hiki ʻana i ka pali ʻoi aku o ke kahakai, a ua pau ka ikehu o ka nalu ma kahi mamao pōkole loa. No laila, hoʻomohala ʻia nā nalu luʻu.

He ʻano maʻamau kēia mau nalu i nā makani o waho, he ikaika nui a neʻe wikiwiki, hiki ke hōʻeha i ka poʻe hele kahakai a me ka poʻe heʻe nalu.

Hoʻokumu pū lākou i ka hoʻoheheʻe a me ka waiho ʻana.

Ka piʻi ʻana o nā nalu wai

Piʻi lākou i ka hiki ʻana o nā nalu nui i kahakai a loaʻa i kahi kiʻekiʻe. Ke neʻe nei lākou i ka wikiwiki a ʻaʻohe puʻupuʻu.

ʻOiai ua palekana lākou no ka mea ʻaʻole nahā e like me nā nalu ʻē aʻe, hiki ke pilikia ma muli o ka ikaika o ka holoi ʻana i hope (huki a momi paha) i pili pū me lākou.

Nā nalu wai hāʻule

He hui ia o ka nalu hāʻule a me ka piʻi ʻana. Ua haki loa kona piko a lilo ka ʻaoʻao haʻahaʻa i luna a lalo a hāʻule a lilo i wai keʻokeʻo.

Nā nalu wai hohonu

ʻO nā nalu wai hohonu, e like me ka inoa i hōʻike ʻia, ke kumu mai kahi nui o ka hohonu o ka wai o ke kai a ʻaʻohe kahakai e kūʻē i kā lākou hana.

ʻO ka ʻōlelo ʻenehana, aia lākou ma nā wahi i ʻoi aku ka hohonu o ka wai ma mua o ka hapalua o ka nalu o ka nalu.

ʻO ka wikiwiki o ka nalu he hana ia o ka nalu o ka nalu. 'O ia ho'i, e holo ana nā nalu me ka lō'ihi hawewe i ka 'oi aku ka maika'i ma mua o ka nalu me ka nalu pōkole.

He nui maoli nā nalu o nā lōʻihi nalu like ʻole i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma luna o kekahi i kekahi e hana i ka nalu nui i hui pū ʻia.

Hele lōʻihi a pololei hoʻi lākou a lawa ka ikehu no ka hele ʻana i kahi mamao ʻoi aku ma mua o nā nalu ʻē aʻe e like me nā nalu ʻino.

ʻO ke kumu kumu nui ka ikehu makani, hiki ke hele mai mai ka makani kūloko a mamao paha. Kapa ʻia lākou he hawewe Stockesche a i ʻole he nalu pōkole.

Nā nalu wai pāpaʻu

Hoʻomaka kēia mau nalu ma kahi o ka hohonu o ka wai i ʻoi aku ka pāpaʻu.

He huakaʻi maʻamau lākou ma nā wai me ka hohonu ma lalo o 1/20 o ka nalu o ka nalu.

Eia naʻe, ʻaʻole like me nā hawewe wai hohonu, ʻaʻohe pili ka wikiwiki o ka nalu i ka nalu o ka nalu, a ʻo ka wikiwiki ka hana o ka hohonu o ka wai.

Hōʻike kēia ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki o ka holo ʻana o nā nalu ma nā wai pāpaʻu ma mua o nā nalu ma nā wai hohonu.

Akā, ua like ka māmā me ke kumu huinahā o ka hua o ka hohonu o ka wai a me ka māmā ma muli o ka umekaumaha.

Velocity = √ (g. Hohonu) (g = umekaumaha mau, 9,8 m / s2; D = hohonu i nā mika).

Kapa ʻia lākou he nalu Lagrange a i ʻole he nalu lōʻihi.

Hiki i kēia mau nalu ke koho i nā kumu kumu. ʻElua ʻano o ka nalu wai ʻili a mākou e hālāwai pinepine ai.

Ka nalu

Hoʻokumu ʻia lākou e nā koʻikoʻi astronomical e like me ka huki ʻana o ka lā a me ka Honua ma ka wai kai.

Hiki iā ʻoe ke noʻonoʻo i nā ʻano haʻahaʻa a kiʻekiʻe e like me ka hele ʻana i kahi nalu me ka lōʻihi o 12 mau hola.

ʻO ke kai ʻino

ʻO ka nalu kai he Kepanī ʻŌlelo, ʻoiai ʻo Iapana paha ka lāhui i hoʻopilikia pinepine ʻia e nā nalu kai. ʻIke ʻia nā huaʻōlelo 'Tsunami' ʻo ia ke kumu o nā huaʻōlelo ʻelua; 'tsu', 'o ia ho'i ke awa, a me 'nami', 'o ia ka nalu.

No laila, pili like ia me "nā nalu awa". ʻO ka hapa nui o nā kai eʻe (ma kahi o 80%) ma muli o nā ōlaʻi nui ma lalo o ke kai.

ʻO ke koena 20% ​​ke kumu o ka ʻāina i lalo o ka wai, nā lua pele a me nā hopena meteor. Hele lākou i ka wikiwiki kiʻekiʻe loa, no laila he mea pōʻino loa lākou.

Manaʻo ʻia lākou no nā nalu wai pāpaʻu no ka mea he mau haneli mile ka lōʻihi o ka nalu kai eʻe, no ka laʻana he 400 mau mile (ma kahi o 644 km), a ʻo ka hohonu o ka moana he 7 mile (ma kahi o 11 km) hohonu.

No laila ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka hohonu ma mua o 1/20 o ka nalu, e like me ka mea i wehewehe ʻia ma mua.

Nā nalu kai

ʻOi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka nui o kēia mau nalu ma mua o ka hohonu o ka wai a lākou e komo ai, e hōʻemi ana i ka wikiwiki o nā nalu.

ʻO kēia ka hopena o ka emi ʻana o ka nalu a me ka piʻi ʻana o ke kiʻekiʻe, i kekahi manawa e haki ana i ka nalu.

Hoʻokahe kēia mau nalu i ke kahakai ma ke ʻano he holoi hope.

Nā nalu wai o loko

ʻO lākou kekahi o nā mea nui loa Nā nalu i ke kai, akā ʻaʻole ʻike ʻia ma waho ma muli o ko lākou hoʻomohala ʻana i nā papa wai o loko.

Hana ʻia ka wai kai i nā papa like ʻole, no ka mea, ʻoi aku ka paʻakai a me ka wai anuanu e pohō i lalo o ka wai paʻakai liʻiliʻi a me ka wai mahana.

Ke hoʻopilikia ʻia ka pilina ma waena o kēia mau papa ʻano ma muli o nā mana o waho e like me ka hana o ke kai, hana ʻia nā nalu o loko.

ʻOiai ua like lākou me ka hoʻohālikelike a me ke ʻano o nā nalu i luna, hele lākou i nā ʻāina ʻē aʻe a hiki i nā kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe ke pā lākou i kahi ʻāina.

Wahi a ka poʻe noiʻi, ʻo ka nalu nui loa i ʻike ʻia e hana ʻia ma ke kowaʻo Luzon ma ke Kai Kina Hema (ma kahi o 550 kapuaʻi ke kiʻekiʻe).

Nā nalu wai Kelvin

ʻO nā nalu Kelvin nā nalu nui i kumu ʻia ma muli o ka nele o ka neʻe ʻana o ka makani ma ka Pākīpika. Ua wehe ʻia lākou e Sir William Thompson (i kapa ʻia ma hope ʻo Lord Kelvin).

ʻO nā hawewe Kelvin kahi ʻano ʻano like ʻole o ka nalu ʻumekaumaha i hoʻopilikia ʻia e ka pōʻai ʻana o ka Honua a ma ka equator a i ʻole nā ​​hawewe pololei. Nā Kūlapa e like me nā kahakai a i ʻole nā ​​pae mauna.

ʻElua ʻano o nā nalu Kelvin - kahakai a me ka equatorial. ʻO nā nalu ʻelua i hoʻoikaika ʻia i ka ʻumekaumaha a ʻaʻole hoʻopuehu.

Nā nalu wai o kēia wā

No ka nalu o kēia wā, ua like ka amplitude me nā helu piha a loaʻa pū kekahi kahe ikehu orbital.

Ma nā huaʻōlelo ʻē aʻe, he ʻano nalu ia e hōʻike ana ka ratio o kahi waiwai koke i kekahi e hōʻike mau ana ma kekahi kumu ʻē aʻe.

Aia 3 ʻano o nā nalu o kēia wā e like me nā nalu longitudinal, transverse a me orbital.

Nā nalu aʻa koko

Hōʻike makaʻala nā nalu capillary e like me nā nalu i ko lākou kino. ʻO ka ikaika hoʻihoʻi e pili ana he capillarity, i.e. H. ka paʻa paʻa e paʻa ai nā ʻāpana wai ma ka ʻili o ka moana.

Hoʻokumu ʻia ko lākou ʻano ʻāwili e nā makani māmā a me nā makani mālie e pā ana i nā haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa ma kahi o 3 a 4 mau mika i kēlā me kēia kekona a me kahi kiʻekiʻe i manaʻo ʻia he 10 mau mika ma luna o ka ʻili wai.

ʻO nā lōʻihi nalu maʻamau ʻaʻole ia ma mua o 1,5 knm a me kahi manawa ma lalo o 0,1 kekona.

E like me kā Blair Kinsman, ke kaukaʻi kaulana o ka moana moana i ʻōlelo ai ma kāna puke Wind Waves (1965), "ʻo nā nalu capillary nā nalu pōkole loa a ʻo ka mea mua e ʻike ʻia ma ka ʻili o ka moana ke hoʻomaka ka makani."

"Ua like lākou me nā wāwae o kekahi popoki, e haehae ana i ka ili pahee o ka wai.”

Nā nalu wai haki

Ke neʻe nei nā ʻale haʻihaʻi i loko o ka wai pāpaʻu i ko lākou hoʻokokoke ʻana i kahakai a hoʻemi ka honua i ka mana o ka nalu a hoʻomaka i ka huli.

ʻIke pinepine ʻia kēia mau mea ma kahi kokoke i nā pali a me nā kai kūʻono.

Nā nalu wai pāpaʻu

ʻO nā nalu Seiche, a i ʻole he seiche wale nō ('ōlelo 'sayh'), he mau nalu kū i puka mai i loko o kahi kino wai paʻa a paʻa ʻia paha.

Hiki ke loaʻa nā nalu kū i kēlā me kēia ʻano o nā ʻano wai semi-paʻa a paʻa paha.

Ke hāʻule ka wai i hope a i waho i loko o kahi ʻauʻau, kahi ʻauʻau wai, a me kahi aniani wai hoʻi, he seiche ma kahi ʻano liʻiliʻi loa.

Ma ka laulā nui, hana lākou ma nā kai kūʻono a me nā loko nui.

Piʻi ka Seiches ke hoʻololi wikiwiki i ke kaomi lewa a i ʻole makani ikaika ka wai ikaika a hoʻoulu ʻia i loko o kahi ʻāpana o ke kino wai.

I ka pau ʻana o ka ikaika o waho, hoʻi hou ka wai i hōʻiliʻili ʻia ikehu hoʻi i ka ʻaoʻao ʻaoʻao o ke kino wai.

ʻO kēia oscillation maʻamau o ka wai, me ka hāʻawi ʻole ʻana i ke kūʻē ʻana, lōʻihi no ka manawa lōʻihi, maʻamau he mau hola a he mau lā paha i ka hopena.

Hiki iā lākou ke hoʻoulu ʻia e nā mua o ka puahiohio, nā nalu a i ʻole nā ​​ōlaʻi ma nā awa moana a i ʻole nā ​​papa moana.

Kuhi pinepine ʻia nā Seiches no nā ʻano.

ʻO kēia ke kumu o ka manawa o ka nalu ʻokoʻa ma waena ʻO ke kiʻekiʻe (kiʻekiʻe) a me ka haʻahaʻa (haʻahaʻa) hiki ke piʻi i ka 7-8 mau hola, e hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka manawa o nā au he nui.

ʻOiai ua like paha nā kumu hoʻololi no nā nalu seiche a me nā hawewe kai, ʻokoʻa ka seiches me nā kai eʻe.

He mau nalu kū ka Seiches me nā wā oscillation lōʻihi loa a hiki i loko o nā kino wai i pani ʻia, aʻo nā kai eʻe he mau nalu holomua e hiki mai ana i ka manuahi. wai mālama ʻia.

9 mau nalu monster nui i hopu ʻia ma ka pahupaʻikiʻi